Price: $13,500.00 Free Shipping *
Status:In Stock (Contact us for ordering info.) Part #: GAME_EBD4691 Condition: Fully Restored
150 hour full professional restoration and reconditioning, including new reproduction playfield (clearcoated), full cabinet repaint, new playfield plastics set, full LED conversion, and much more. Total of $
3,655.88
in new parts installed.
*Shipping: Purchase at list price will include complimentary custom wood-crating and packaging, and standard dock-to-dock shipping within the United States. Shipping to Canada and/or additional delivery services are extra. No shipping outside US/Canada. Canadian customers are responsible for any import fees.Click here for more shipping info.
Payment is by ACH bank transfer, Venmo, or cash paid in person (paper money). No other forms of payment accepted for this item.
Sale is final- no returns, refunds, exchanges.
Actual Value:
Item:
Value:
Average-Condition Value (as-is "fixxer-upper"):
$4,000.00
Parts Installed:
$3,655.88
Shop Labor: (150 hrs @ $85/hr)
$12,750.00
Wood Crating & Shipping:
$700.00
Total Value:
$21,105.88
Asking Price:
$13,500.00
YOU SAVE:
$7,605.88
Values at the left give an example of what you might pay to buy an average used pinball machine like this in as-is condition, have it restored and upgraded in a professional shop, and then crated & shipped to you in finished shape. Some values may vary depending on actual starting condition of the game, and market fluctuations.
As these numbers show, it's typically less expensive to buy one all restored and done, than to buy one as-is and pay to have it overhauled.
Average condition value is based on current monitored market values posted online at pinside.com at time of publishing.
PLAYFIELD: New reproduction clearcoated playfield. We chose to go with an Illinois Pin Ball Company licensed reproduction playfield as some of the colors on this reproduction more closely match the Bally original, and the printing is more precise and clear than the current reproduction made by Classic Pinball Reproductions.
New modern LED lighting has been installed, along with an anti-flicker LED adapter set. All of the troublesome original wedge-base lamp sockets under the playfield have been removed and replaced with individual bayonet-base lamp sockets, which are much easier to work with. If you've ever owned a Bally game of this era, you know what a pain it is to work with the flimsy factory lamp sockets that hold #555 bulbs. That pain is no more with the all-new bayonet-base lamp sockets that hold #44 bulbs (LEDs).
New drop targets with original style hot-stamped artwork have been installed. New blue plastic playfield posts installed. All mechanical assemblies have been fully reconditioned and rebuilt with new parts including drop target banks, pop bumpers, slingshot kickers, flippers, kickout saucer/outhole. New coil sleeves installed. Fully rebuilt flippers. New flipper bats. Wiring harness fully removed and hand-cleaned and reconditioned. Factory-style Mylar protectors installed around pop bumpers. New disc capacitors installed on all playfield switches that use them (often missing or inoperative on most used games). New pin ball installed. Playfield fully waxed with top-quality Carnauba wax.
Lower playfield apron (score card holder) and ball shooter gauge have both been media-blasted and repainted in original color paint, and have brand new aftermarket reproduction artwork decals installed. A new set of score and instruction cards has also been installed.
A new licensed reproduction playfield plastics set has been installed. We've made three modifications regarding plastics:
1) The mounting of the two large plastics near the top left and right of the playfield has been changed. These are the pieces over the left inline drop targets, and right 8-ball drop target.
From the factory, Bally mounted these plastics using fifteen 2-inch Philips-head screws that went down through the upper plastic and also through 2 clear plastic ball guides below (3 pieces each side = 6 pieces total). This is a really messy and imprecise setup, as it makes for a lot of work to remove/reinstall these plastics when doing simple maintenance (playfield cleaning, light bulb replacement, rubber ring replacement, etc). And these parts never seem to line up correctly either.
What we've done is to get rid of the fifteen individual screws that originally held all 6 of these pieces together and mount the 4 lower clear plastic pieces (ball guides) to the playfield with studs and spacers. This makes them stay in place when the upper (cover) plastics are removed. The cover plastics are simply held to the tops of the studs with common white nylon cap nuts which are quick-and-easy to remove and re-install. Makes maintenance so much easier! We have to wonder why they didn't do it this way from the factory.
2) The clear ball guide plastics included in the reproduction plastics set are very thin (thinner than factory originals) and just won't hold up to pin balls during play without quickly cracking and breaking.
We had some thicker replacements custom-made from 0.092-inch clear Polycarbonate which are much stronger, and even thicker than factory originals, and will stand up much better to heavy pin balls. 4 of these pieces are used under the 2 large upper plastics to guide the ball.
3) The mounting of the return lane guides at the bottom of the playfield has been "re-imagined".
Originally these were a 2-level assembly with a plastic guide on the bottom that came in contact with the ball, and a stainless steel metal guide on the top which had no contact with the ball.
This factory design has always appeared counter-intuitive to us: the metal guide is typically what you want on the lower portion, to hold up to all the impact from the ball. Plastic guides typically go on top (this is the way Williams did it for many years). We wonder if Bally didn't somehow get this design upside-down from the beginning, and never bothered to correct it.
You may have noticed on most original Eight Ball Deluxe games that this lower plastic guide is always broken, and you'll often see them taped-together, glued, or otherwise creatively repaired or replaced.
We've done away with the plastic guide entirely as it's simply not needed in this location, and have used just the stainless steel guide in each of the the return lanes, which holds up much better to ball activity. This is the way Williams designed the return lanes on their games for many years, and it's a tried-and-true design.
BACKGLASS: Factory original and in excellent condition. See images above for front and back views of backglass. A new set of black plastic trim pieces has been installed on the side and top edges of the backglass.
CABINET/BACKBOX: Fully cleaned and professionally refinished and repainted in exact original artwork and colors using licensed reproduction paint stencil sets. New stainless steel cabinet side rails have been installed with brand new correct-style smooth-head twist nails. New cabinet gliders have been installed on the cabinet back and backbox underside, replacing the worn and rusted original metal factory gliders. Brand new factory-style power cord has been installed with grounded plug end.
Coin door and trim have been completely removed, disassembled into every individual component, all fully cleaned, reconditioned, rebuilt or replaced if necessary, including full cleaning and restoration of wiring harness. New SBA Bally decal on front of coin door. Door is set up to take quarters and dollar coins, just as it came from the factory, and all coin slots and switches are fully working. A brand new NOS dollar coin mechanism has been installed.
Game can be operated on coins, or 'free play'. There is actually no dedicated free play setting on Bally games of this era, so what we do is set one of the 3 replay (free game) scores to the minimum value (10,000 points), and then manually add credits to the game. So when a game is played, 10,000 points will quickly be passed, and a credit is then awarded, which perpetually keeps credits on the game, and in a 'free play' state.
Original legs have been media-blasted and professionally repainted in factory original charcoal metallic color with catalyzed automotive acrylic enamel paint. New leg levelers, leg bolts, leg bolt plates, and cabinet leg protector pads have been installed. Leg bolts have protective nylon washers under their heads to protect leg paint from wear/tear.
Cabinet interior has been fully stripped of all parts, cleaned, and refinished/repainted in factory style. All internal parts fully restored/reconditioned and reassembled including power supply assembly (upgraded), tilt mechanism panel, speaker, ground wiring braid, backbox hardware and latches, and all mounting hardware. All wiring harnesses and sub-harnesses in the game have been removed, hand-cleaned, and re-installed. New flipper buttons and flipper button switches installed in main cabinet.
Old score displays have been replaced with modern LED units and have a look/color that are nearly identical to original factory displays. All circuit boards have been thoroughly overhauled and rebuilt/upgraded as needed. Cabinet and backbox wiring harnesses fully hand-cleaned and reconditioned.
A brand new sheet of scratch-free tempered safety glass has been installed over the playfield.
New reproduction adjustment/settings cards have been custom-made and installed in the backbox to replace worn and faded originals.
New locks installed on coin door and backbox. Lockdown bar and latch on front of main cabinet have been fully removed, disassembled, cleaned/refinished, and re-installed with new hardware and a new foam seal strip on the underside of the lockdown bar. Ball shooter reconditioned and rebuilt with new parts. New reproduction game manual and schematics included.
List of New Parts Installed:
Item:
Value:
Cabinet paint stencil set
$198.95
Cabinet paint materials
$95.73
Legs refinish and paint
$85.00
Cabinet and backbox nylon gliders (8)
$7.98
Leg bolts (8)
$11.92
Leg bolt protective nylon washers (8)
$2.00
Leg levelers- heavy duty (4)
$9.96
Leg bolt plates- heavy duty (4)
$19.80
Playfield top rail rubber bumper (2)
$0.98
Stainless steel cabinet side rails (2)
$129.99
Side rail twist nails (21)
$39.69
Leg pad protectors (4)
$11.95
Flipper buttons (2)
$11.00
Flipper button housing bracket (2)
$7.00
Flipper switches (2)
$27.00
Lockdown bar latch SEMS screws (4)
$0.76
Ball shooter external spring
$0.90
Ball shooter internal spring
$0.95
Ball shooter washers (3)
$1.17
Lockdown bar foam seal
$3.99
Playfield glass- tempered
$99.99
Dollar coin acceptor (NOS)
$30.00
Dollar coin door price plate
$3.99
Coin door decal
$8.19
Coin door lock
$4.95
Coin door volume control knob
$10.49
Coin door Mylar insulator for slam switch
$1.49
Cabinet key hook for backbox keys
$0.99
Backbox lock
$6.95
Backbox bolts (4)
$5.16
Backbox bolt washers (4)
$1.20
Backbox insert panel lamp shrouds (5)
$34.95
Backbox factory inspection card (reproduction)
$3.50
Cabinet/backbox instruction card set (reproduction)
$25.00
Cabinet varistor card (reproduction)
$3.50
Backglass trim set
$13.95
Game manual with schematics (reproduction)
$25.16
Fuse clips for power supply board (4)
$1.40
Misc fuses replaced
$2.21
Power supply board cover standoffs (3)
$2.67
Power supply board cover- clear plastic
$10.00
Power supply board cover high voltage decal (reproduction)
Before purchasing, we strongly recommend that you locate a qualified service person in your local area who you can call to help, in person, should you or your game need technical assistance.
We do not come with the game, so make sure you have help on your end, if it is ever needed.
If you are not experienced in working with electronic pinball machines, or don't have anyone available in your area who is, we would recommend not buying a pinball machine.
Pinball machines have hundreds of moving parts, and heavy steel balls flying around hitting pieces and parts, and will need service/repair/maintenance from time to time. This is the elemental nature of pinball machines.
Warranty covers electronics only (circuit boards, score displays), 30 days from date of receipt, repair or replace, as deemed necessary by our shop.
A problem with a warranted part may require you to properly and safely remove it from the game, and properly and safely package it for shipping back to our shop. This will also require you to properly and safely re-install the repaired or replaced part when it is sent back to you.
If you are not comfortable doing this, you should enlist the help of a local experienced person who you can call to do the work for you, in person, and possibly a local packaging/shipping store who can safely package and ship component(s) for you.
We do not cover costs for hired labor/assistance or packaging services. Any such costs are the responsibility of the customer.
If you have a problem with a non-warranted part needing repair or replacement, we may be able to help, but you may be responsible for any associated labor, packaging, shipping, and parts costs.
Pinball Parts
Video coming soon...
